Ice Formation and Judgment with Silas and Jason
The Advocate, The Catskills, 1.25.16
Photo courtesy of Alpine Logic
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Peak reached out to Jason Hurwitz, local guide and ice screw sharpener, to discussing some of the many factors that go into judging whether ice is safe for climbing.
This article on ice formation and judgment was written in collaboration with Silas Rossi. Rossi is also Gunks local, a fully certified IFMGA guide who works both domestically and internationally, an AMGA instructor team member, and owner of Alpine Logic. 
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By Jason Hurwitz
1.25.16
Disclaimer: This a general discussion and not meant to be a substitute for experience. It takes years of practice to understand the complexities of judging ice and ice climbing protection. Beginners should seek proper instruction for this elusive and hazardous medium. Risk is inherent in climbing and ice climbing, in particular, is filled with objective hazards. Traveling with an experienced and knowledgeable partner can help identify and mitigate these risks. Ice will fall in ice climbing- PLEASE wear a helmet.
In one of the warmer winters the Hudson Valley has in the past few years, the question of whether ice is climbable or not is a hot topic. There are many factors that go into the formation of the ice that climbers enjoy traveling over. Ice is a living medium. Whether it be from the sun, water, wind, temperature or passage of previous ice climbers, ice changes from moment to moment. With all of these natural factors at play, ultimately, it’s a clear judgment of our own and our partners' capabilities and comfort levels that leads us to making yes/no decisions about climbing. To understand the nature of ice in any specific area it helps to pay attention to the previous weather fluctuations and the type of flow.
Now, let's briefly discuss some of the things that factor into the decision making process of whether or not to climb. We will look at two main ice types and how they are formed.
In the Catskills, we have lower flow or seepage climbs, and higher flow or waterfall climbs. (There are, of course, variations to these types but I’m attempting to simplify the information.) When either type of ice is forming, it helps for temperatures to be consistently cold for several days with daytime temps not much higher than 32 degrees and night time temps in the teens. A slow trend like that over several days, with no big temp spikes, helps to build good stable ice.
With seepage climbs, the ice forms from ground water that starts at the rock and builds out. Good examples of these are most of the climbs on the west side of Stony Clove. These are the types of climbs that the Catskills is somewhat famous for with, often, thinner ice and thinner “scrappy” top outs. Scrappy because these flows come from slow feeding ground water and top outs can be over rocks, dirt and leaves unless there is sufficient snow cover to be had.
These climbs have a tendency to form earlier as slow moving water freezes faster. They also have a propensity to have more structural stability due to attachment to the rock behind. This attachment, or bonding, is not a sure thing however, as there may have been a recent rain that can undercut the ice and separate it from the earth beneath. An overhanging rock surface will also interfere with rock/ice attachment. This is another reason that it’s useful to know weather history.
1.25.16
Disclaimer: This a general discussion and not meant to be a substitute for experience. It takes years of practice to understand the complexities of judging ice and ice climbing protection. Beginners should seek proper instruction for this elusive and hazardous medium. Risk is inherent in climbing and ice climbing, in particular, is filled with objective hazards. Traveling with an experienced and knowledgeable partner can help identify and mitigate these risks. Ice will fall in ice climbing- PLEASE wear a helmet.
In one of the warmer winters the Hudson Valley has in the past few years, the question of whether ice is climbable or not is a hot topic. There are many factors that go into the formation of the ice that climbers enjoy traveling over. Ice is a living medium. Whether it be from the sun, water, wind, temperature or passage of previous ice climbers, ice changes from moment to moment. With all of these natural factors at play, ultimately, it’s a clear judgment of our own and our partners' capabilities and comfort levels that leads us to making yes/no decisions about climbing. To understand the nature of ice in any specific area it helps to pay attention to the previous weather fluctuations and the type of flow.
Now, let's briefly discuss some of the things that factor into the decision making process of whether or not to climb. We will look at two main ice types and how they are formed.
In the Catskills, we have lower flow or seepage climbs, and higher flow or waterfall climbs. (There are, of course, variations to these types but I’m attempting to simplify the information.) When either type of ice is forming, it helps for temperatures to be consistently cold for several days with daytime temps not much higher than 32 degrees and night time temps in the teens. A slow trend like that over several days, with no big temp spikes, helps to build good stable ice.
With seepage climbs, the ice forms from ground water that starts at the rock and builds out. Good examples of these are most of the climbs on the west side of Stony Clove. These are the types of climbs that the Catskills is somewhat famous for with, often, thinner ice and thinner “scrappy” top outs. Scrappy because these flows come from slow feeding ground water and top outs can be over rocks, dirt and leaves unless there is sufficient snow cover to be had.
These climbs have a tendency to form earlier as slow moving water freezes faster. They also have a propensity to have more structural stability due to attachment to the rock behind. This attachment, or bonding, is not a sure thing however, as there may have been a recent rain that can undercut the ice and separate it from the earth beneath. An overhanging rock surface will also interfere with rock/ice attachment. This is another reason that it’s useful to know weather history.
"Think of a fresh Popsicle after the flavor juices are sucked out and a seeming skeleton of ice is left in its place."
A lot of the climbs in the Catskills are actual waterfalls. These can be found in the ravine climbs like Viola, Hillyer, Wildcat and Buttermilk Ravines. The massive quantities of moving water in waterfalls require colder and more consistent temps over a longer period of time to properly set up and freeze this fast moving liquid.
Ice starts forming from the spray and then builds in towards the rock. As a result, the earlier formations created from these high flow climbs will be hollow inside and less stable, though they may appear solid. Later in the season, these waterfall formations tend to have a thicker shell and be more structurally sound even though there is still a lot of water running underneath.
The term “structural” can be used to describe ice that is well supported either by itself or with the assistance from underlying rock terrain. To be clear, even structural looking ice can be fraught with hazards due to any of the natural factors described above.
Structural is different from bonding though they may accompany each other. “Structural” speaks of self-supporting ice. If ice is “bonded” to the surface underneath, it is strongly attached to it. Well bonded ice helps it to be more structural.
Taking a closer look at the ice, differences are clear at the micro level. In one area and on one flow, or climb, there can be many different types of ice. A good example of where to see this is on the multi-tiered Buttermilk Falls, one of the most popular ravine climbs in the Catskills. On each tier, there are multiple ascent paths. One can easily encounter hard brittle ice that is bonded or un-bonded to the underlying rock, soft buttery ice, hollow shells that are barely and/or fully covering the very live waterfall underneath, all on one tier and right next to each other.
Some of the Catskill’s areas, like the Sun Wall at the Playground in Stoney Clove, or Asbestos Wall in the Kaaterskill Ravine Area, face south toward the sun and are prone to sublimation, changing right from ice to vapor. This will lead to the ice being “sun baked”. This can cause the ice to shrink and become less structurally stable over time. Think of a fresh Popsicle after the flavor juices are sucked out and a seeming skeleton of ice is left in its place. This remaining ice is much lighter due to the removal of the liquid and is less structurally stable. The more sun a climb gets, the more baked it can get.
Fast changes like temperature change, sun, or rain with a heavy volume, really anything that changes quickly, causes the ice to become unstable. When ice forms slowly it tends toward stability; when it forms quickly it tends toward instability. When ice is formed during very cold temps it gets very hard and brittle and more pressure tends to be built into those layers. This pressure is more easily released when an axe or crampon strikes it.
Fast temperature changes can cause the ice to change shape, twist and torque. When ice is formed at very cold temperatures, it has the tendency to be formed under pressure. This tension lays dormant in the cold-formed layers and is waiting to be released. This often leads to hidden areas with more pressure built into the ice. When released, this stress can then cause large “dinner plating” (think of breaking a dinner plate!) and/or surprisingly intense cracking that travels much further than expected.
Ice starts forming from the spray and then builds in towards the rock. As a result, the earlier formations created from these high flow climbs will be hollow inside and less stable, though they may appear solid. Later in the season, these waterfall formations tend to have a thicker shell and be more structurally sound even though there is still a lot of water running underneath.
The term “structural” can be used to describe ice that is well supported either by itself or with the assistance from underlying rock terrain. To be clear, even structural looking ice can be fraught with hazards due to any of the natural factors described above.
Structural is different from bonding though they may accompany each other. “Structural” speaks of self-supporting ice. If ice is “bonded” to the surface underneath, it is strongly attached to it. Well bonded ice helps it to be more structural.
Taking a closer look at the ice, differences are clear at the micro level. In one area and on one flow, or climb, there can be many different types of ice. A good example of where to see this is on the multi-tiered Buttermilk Falls, one of the most popular ravine climbs in the Catskills. On each tier, there are multiple ascent paths. One can easily encounter hard brittle ice that is bonded or un-bonded to the underlying rock, soft buttery ice, hollow shells that are barely and/or fully covering the very live waterfall underneath, all on one tier and right next to each other.
Some of the Catskill’s areas, like the Sun Wall at the Playground in Stoney Clove, or Asbestos Wall in the Kaaterskill Ravine Area, face south toward the sun and are prone to sublimation, changing right from ice to vapor. This will lead to the ice being “sun baked”. This can cause the ice to shrink and become less structurally stable over time. Think of a fresh Popsicle after the flavor juices are sucked out and a seeming skeleton of ice is left in its place. This remaining ice is much lighter due to the removal of the liquid and is less structurally stable. The more sun a climb gets, the more baked it can get.
Fast changes like temperature change, sun, or rain with a heavy volume, really anything that changes quickly, causes the ice to become unstable. When ice forms slowly it tends toward stability; when it forms quickly it tends toward instability. When ice is formed during very cold temps it gets very hard and brittle and more pressure tends to be built into those layers. This pressure is more easily released when an axe or crampon strikes it.
Fast temperature changes can cause the ice to change shape, twist and torque. When ice is formed at very cold temperatures, it has the tendency to be formed under pressure. This tension lays dormant in the cold-formed layers and is waiting to be released. This often leads to hidden areas with more pressure built into the ice. When released, this stress can then cause large “dinner plating” (think of breaking a dinner plate!) and/or surprisingly intense cracking that travels much further than expected.
"Expect ice to come off; ice can fall from a climber’s current position and also from places along the route they’ve recently climbed. Climbers knock ice down- it’s that simple."
The weight of the ice itself, sun exposure, an axe strike, rain or wind can all lead to the releasing of this stress and it can have severe consequences. Last year, with the extreme temperature changes, Upper Japanese Falls fell down. This happened because of an axe strike that, at first, seemed plenty far enough away. But instead, the strike drove a very long horizontal fracture that dropped huge pieces of the climb and sent it hurtling towards climbers on the pitch below. The pieces were very large and traveled quite far as tends to happen in ice climbing. The fact that no one got hurt is amazing.
Expect ice to come off; ice can fall from a climber’s current position and also from places along the route they’ve recently climbed. Climbers knock ice down- it’s that simple.
Imagine climbing on rock terrain where the rock is incredibly loose and routinely knocked down. When ice climbing this is the norm and serious attention must be paid to it. It’s important to remember that rescues on ice climbing terrain are usually more challenging and time consuming than one would find in an area like the Gunks. Basic rules like never being below an active ice climber and wearing a helmet are a very good idea. If there does exist an ultimate goal for the day, it would be to ascend and descend the climb with no harm to climbers or the climb itself.
Learning to read the ice is everything. Some climbers are newer to reading and perhaps working on a Dr. Seuss reading level, whereas others are more experienced and may be reading Shakespeare. A good rule of thumb is to know what you know and know what you don’t know. If in doubt, play it more conservatively. Perhaps ask an experienced local as to the current conditions. Understanding and application of this knowledge takes time and practice.
Out on a climb it’s the sum of learning and real time experiences that comes together in making an evaluation of the current conditions. This is often subconscious and feels more like a “gut check”. Climbers who have had more time out on ice will have encountered a greater variety of conditions and, subsequently, have myriad ways of mitigating the risks. Collaboration with other experienced climbers brings even more knowledge and techniques into play.
Ultimately the answer on whether to go on or retreat is personal and, basically, a gut check- “Yep, I'm doing it”. “Nope, not today”.
I’ve been climbing ice for 20 seasons and I’m still learning new things all the time. The most important thing I’ve learned is to not let my ego make decisions for me.
Please feel free to comment on and propose future subjects. If something doesn’t make sense and requires further explanation, please let me know and I will do my best to assist. I’m open to suggestions.
-Jason.
Expect ice to come off; ice can fall from a climber’s current position and also from places along the route they’ve recently climbed. Climbers knock ice down- it’s that simple.
Imagine climbing on rock terrain where the rock is incredibly loose and routinely knocked down. When ice climbing this is the norm and serious attention must be paid to it. It’s important to remember that rescues on ice climbing terrain are usually more challenging and time consuming than one would find in an area like the Gunks. Basic rules like never being below an active ice climber and wearing a helmet are a very good idea. If there does exist an ultimate goal for the day, it would be to ascend and descend the climb with no harm to climbers or the climb itself.
Learning to read the ice is everything. Some climbers are newer to reading and perhaps working on a Dr. Seuss reading level, whereas others are more experienced and may be reading Shakespeare. A good rule of thumb is to know what you know and know what you don’t know. If in doubt, play it more conservatively. Perhaps ask an experienced local as to the current conditions. Understanding and application of this knowledge takes time and practice.
Out on a climb it’s the sum of learning and real time experiences that comes together in making an evaluation of the current conditions. This is often subconscious and feels more like a “gut check”. Climbers who have had more time out on ice will have encountered a greater variety of conditions and, subsequently, have myriad ways of mitigating the risks. Collaboration with other experienced climbers brings even more knowledge and techniques into play.
Ultimately the answer on whether to go on or retreat is personal and, basically, a gut check- “Yep, I'm doing it”. “Nope, not today”.
I’ve been climbing ice for 20 seasons and I’m still learning new things all the time. The most important thing I’ve learned is to not let my ego make decisions for me.
Please feel free to comment on and propose future subjects. If something doesn’t make sense and requires further explanation, please let me know and I will do my best to assist. I’m open to suggestions.
-Jason.
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